An Introduction

The Languedoc, Roussillon, Tarn is a vast area in the southwest of France extending from the Rhône Valley on the east to the Spanish border on the south. Perhaps not as famous to us Americans as Provence, its neighbor to the east, nonetheless, it has a great deal to offer the visitor. It is a wonderful place to visit with mountain ranges, deep gorges, medieval villages, Roman and Cathar ruins, seaside resorts with broad sandy beaches, great wines, and even the famous Canal du Midi. All told there is much to explore.


Nimes and the Gard

The regions that make up the Languedoc (of the 25 official ones in France) are the Languedoc-Roussillon and the Midi-Pyrénées. The "départements"(the official governmental administrative divisions of which there are 100) include the Lot, the Aveyron, the Lozère, the Tarn and a few others. Thus there are a lot of names that arise in discussing this large region, and there's lots to see and do.

We'll start in the more eastern area, the area closest to Provence. This is the Gard. Nîmes is the capital of this area and is a lovely metropolitan city with a pedestrian-only center and a several impressive Roman ruins. The city is undergoing a major renovation which, when completed, will make the city more pedestrian- and tourist-friendly. Be sure to visit the Marche Coupole, the indoor market which although housed in the ground floor of a new mall, truly feels like a traditional French market and offers a terrific selection of local specialties.

North of Nîmes is the famous Pont du Gard, the 3-tiered Roman aqueduct. Spend a special afternoon here, visiting the museum, sunning on the beach, swimming in the water and all the while enjoying the spectacular bridge. Just north is Uzes an elegant town just north which is worth a trip.


Montpellier , the Cevennes and the Tarn

Continuing back again along the sea, one arrives at Montpellier, a vibrant urban center. The focus of the old city is the impressive Place de la Comédie, an expansive plaza with elegant buildings, outdoor cafes, an esplanade with plane trees, a carousel, a pony ride for children, and the impressive Corum Symphony Hall with a view over the rest of the city. The Rue de Foch with its elegant shops extends from the Place to the reproduction of the Arc de Triomphe. All told this is a lovely city to explore.

Inland one can explore the Cévennes, the mountain range mentioned in Robert Louis Stevenson's Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. Or travel a bit more westerly to the Causses, a massive series of plateaus with the Gorges de Tarn, a dramatic canyon, one of many to explore. Tucked here and there are ancient medieval villages ideal for a stop for a local lunch. St. Guilheim le Désert, for one, has an ancient monastery, village houses climbing the canyon wall, a nearby cave with stalagtites, a riverside hiking trail, a Roman bridge with a mystical story, and a beach where one can swim in the river. This village alone is worth an entire afternoon. But there's more. The town of Millau is now famous for its Viaduc , a breathtakingly beautiful bridge spanning the Tarn river. And perhaps, a special treat is a visit to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, the town where the famous cheese is made. Here you can visit one of several factories owned and run by the original families who produce this special cheese.



Bézier and the Canal du Midi

Continuing around to the south west, is Béziers, another charming city located on a hilltop. There is a graceful, tree-lined boulevard as one enters the city center and a beautiful cathedral with view of the lower city. The countryside here is a gentler landscape. The coastline has broad sandy beaches and charming seaside resorts. As you drive along these roads one can spy flamingos feeding at the inland marshes. Just north of Béziers is the Canal du Midi, the remarkable engineering feat started in the 1600s and crossing 150 miles of land with 91 locks. One can visit an outdoor museum of sorts that explains the working system of the locks. Hiking and biking trails parallel the canal, and there are pedal boats to hire if only for a few hours.


Carcassone and the Cathar Castles

Continuing around going south west we are now in Cathar country. In the 13th century Catharism was a break-away religion from the Catholic church in Rome. Many deadly battles took place here in which Roman crusaders destroyed entire populations of Cathar towns and villages. Today, perched on the tops of narrow peaks, there are remnants of remarkable fortified castles. Carcassonne, located in an open setting on the main thoroughfare between the Mediterranean and Toulouse, is the largest fortress in Europe and is fully intact. In addition to these historical visit, the hills and open plains in this area offer mineral spas, famous wineries, hiking trails, river kayaking, and charming small villages.

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