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The Cost of the Euro |
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Okay, its true. The Euro costs more this year. When the euro was instituted in 2002, we Americans were in heaven. It was so easy to calculate the cost in dollars because the euro was roughly equivalent to the dollar. One euroone dollar. No more figuring out the lire at 1600 to the dollar, or the franc at 5.45 to the dollar. But as of the writing of this column, the cost of the euro is around 1.25 to the dollar. So here we are, once again calculating the cost of items in France and Italy. And the bad news is due to the weak dollar a €2.50 latte now costs $3.13!
There is good news for those of us who love traveling to Europe: renting is a wonderful way to keep down your expenses. Eating out in restaurants can take a huge bite out of your travel budget. Renting allows you to shop in local markets, get good values on fresh produce and eat the occasional meal at home. Think of all the delicacies that you love to eat in France or Italy: robust cheeses, complex wines, hearty breads, home-made pastas, foie gras, marinated Provencal olives, elegant chocolates, pastries, and so on. Ordering these items in a fine restaurant can be expensive. Buying them in the local market and having them at home is a bargain. Shopping is a huge part of the fun. The weekly open-air markets held in most major villages and all bigger towns in France are an event in and of themselves.
Pre-made foods are another special treat for those who want to eat local specialties at home without the work. Forget the take out counter at Safewaythis is a totally different species. At the open-air market, the poultry vendor will have revolving spits with chickens roasting bathed in local herbs. In Provence the sausage vendors will have a huge pan with paella cooking. You request the quantity you want, and they seal it in a plastic container, and you take it home. A wonderful midday meal! During the rest of the week, larger French villages have a traiteur, a store offering a large selection of pre-made food with such things as roast rabbit, sliced roast pork, homemade pasta, poached fish as well as elegant desserts in individual portions, and more. And in Italy go to an enoteca or pasticceria. These are typically restaurant quality and are a wonderful way of getting a meal of local specialties you can enjoy in your own charming rental. Much less expensive than going to a restaurant.
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Mastering the
French Open-Air Market |
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Check with the local Tourist Office (or our own local information that comes with your rental) to see what days the local markets are. Find out which is the biggest one and be sure to visit that one.
Markets
are half-day only. 8:30 am to 1:30 pm. So get there at least
by mid morning. As all the locals are shopping that day, too,
parking is always a challenge. Arriving in the early part of
the morning helps.
Take a straw basket for your purchases. Merchants will give you little paper or plastic bags, but they get cumbersome to hold. Many houses will have such baskets in the kitchen for you to use. Or buy one at the market.
Bring cash. Merchants only take cash for food purchases. Usually there are ATM machines around for you to get more if you need it, but it will save you time and footsteps if you come prepared.
Explore. Many towns have very large markets. There are streets with stands just for fish and meat, others for cheese, olives, spices; still others for kitchen supplies, or flowers, or clothing. Take your time and explore.
Socialize with the vendors. Although the vendors are busythis is after all their way of making a living--they often love to talk about their products. Most are local farmers and will offer tastes of cheese or honey or salami.
Notice how other shoppers select their purchase. Often vendors prefer to handle the produce for you, but will give you the exact piece you want. Dont worry about asking for a specific weight in grams. You can ask for trois pêches blanches (3 white peaches) or huit tranches de saucisson (8 slices of salami).
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Beautiful Tuscany
Montepulciano |
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In the fall, I visited houses in the area of Tuscany that is southeast of Siena. It was a cool grey November afternoon, as James, the regional rep and I drove up to Montepulciano for lunch. We parked below the walls of the city and hiked up the cobble-stoned streets past pretty stores selling famous Brunello wine--the Vino Nobile, Italys oldest DOC wine. As we reached the cathedral at the top, James told me about the Corse delli Botti. Held the first Sunday in September, teams from competing neighborhoods race to push wine barrels to this very spot. It seems the perfect event to celebrate their pride in the famous wine. We leaned over the wall and enjoyed a breathtaking view of rounded hills stretching off to the distance.
This part of Tuscany is heavenly, and Pope Pius II thought so
too, when he had the city of Pienza designed and built as the
ideal city. We have many
lovely houses in this region, all with beautiful views. Stand
outside the gate of TM056 at Monticchiello, a beautiful large
house with pool and see a view that is the most photographed
site in the Tuscan countryside. TM39 and 40, two charming small
houses with olive trees above and vineyards below have a view
of verdant hills and a footpath leading to Montepulciano.
A convenient train station at Chiusi is the central railroad
stop between Florence (1.5 hours) and Rome (2 hours). So for
clients who do want to see both Tuscany and Umbria, the Montepulciano
area is the answer. Order the catalog to see the full selection
or call us with your specific dates and requirements.
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Staying in Paris
in the Marais |
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The Marais, the local name for the 3rd and 4th arrondissement
is one of the most popular neighborhoods for renting in Paris.
The name comes from the French word for swamp but today it is
a charming area with its maze of tiny streets, charming little
parks, and elegant 17th century palaces.
The complex history of the Marais is the basis of its rich diversityexactly what attracts Parisians and tourists, too. In the 13th century the Jewish community first moved here, and there is still a strong presence on streets like Rue des Rosiers with its wonderful collection of kosher food shops and restaurants. In the 1600s Henry IV built the Place des Vosges with nine nearly identical mansions, two of which were built to house royalty. It remains one of the prettiest squares in all of Paris. In 1965 after a period of decline, Paris declared the Marais an historic district, and it became instantly stylish. Affordable initially, new residents purchased property, opened up dark spaces, exposed beams and revived the community. Young families and the gay community moved in, as well as independent designers who could afford the retail rent. It is now a diverse, lively and fashionable area. The famous Centre Pompidou, the Picasso Museum and the Carnavalet are located here as well as many excellent restaurants and cafes. It is a terrific place to be.
Weve
a wonderful selection of apartments there. PA035
on Rue des Tournelles, just a block from the Place des Vosges,
is a beautiful, spacious one bedroom painted all white with
exposed beams and a romantic bedroom. PA045
on St. Croix de la Bretonnerie is a pretty one bedroom decorated
with antiques in a building near Rue des Archives a street with
trendy bars and shopsseveral of them gay. PA048
is a charming studio close to Les Halles and its pedestrian-only
streets. PA032 is
a duplex with a tiny wrap around terrace on 2 sides and a lovely
view offering two bedrooms/two baths. And there are more. Visit
the Paris section on our website for rentals starting with PA03
or PA04.
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New Houses in
the South of France |
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We have lots of new houses to offer. Here are a few to entice
you. You can visit them all on our website.
Click on France, Provence, then scroll numerically.
At
Roussillon visit PR073 a jewel of a village house.
Located at the top of the famous village, which is perched on
ochre-colored cliffs, this clever apartment has a totally private
terrace with views of the pristine countryside beyond. Its artistic
owner has decorated this two-bedroom apartment with ornate chandeliers,
pretty paintings and romantic charm. Others may visit Roussillon,
but you can stay in the famous little village and feel like
youve left todays world behind.
At Villars in the Luberon, we have PR060 a charming 2-bedroom house in a hamlet surrounded by cherry trees cultivated by the owner. Stay in this lovely property and meet a farmer who was born and raised on this spot. Walk into the little village of Villars. Sit on the broad patio and enjoy a stunning view of the Vaucluse mountains to the north. Enjoy the very central location for touring all of the Luberon Valley then return each afternoon to your quiet retreat.
In the Bouches du Rhône at Paradou we offer PR302 a newly renovated spacious Bergerie or shepherds cabin that borders on the Alpilles National Park. It has 4 bedrooms/3 baths, a beautiful pool and is in a very special location. It is 10 minutes to Les Baux, 15 minutes to Arles and has two charming villages on either side, each with a great selection of restaurants and an open-air market. The Bergerie is a U-shaped stone building with a stunning master suite and two beautiful living rooms. Visit it on the web.
On the Riviera, we now have RV130 a beautiful 2-bedroom/2-bath cottage with a huge lawn and a stunning view of Menton below and the Mediterranean. You can walk down to the town and the beach! It is rare to find a small house that is so prettily decorated. This is the perfect property for a small family or 2 couples. Menton is the ideal location for touring from the Italian Riviera to Nice. Call right away--there is still spring and fall availability.
All the Private Listings (those we represent directly with French owners) are on the web. Visit them at our website.
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